Painting glossaryPainting terms, in plain English.

Paint whose binder is entirely acrylic polymer, with no vinyl or styrene blended in. All-acrylic binders generally hold up better to sun, moisture and temperature swings, which is why the phrase matters most on exterior paint. It describes the type of binder, not how much of it is in the can; for that, look at volume solids.

AcrylicBinderVolume solidsLatexRead the guide →

A single wall painted a different color than the rest of the room, usually deeper or bolder, to draw the eye to a feature such as a fireplace, headboard or built-in. A wall that already holds a focal point tends to look more deliberate than one picked at random. Test the color on that wall first, since screens and paint chips can mislead.

Color drenchingFifth wallUndertoneRead the guide →

A synthetic polymer used as the binder in most modern water-based paints. Acrylic binders stay flexible, grip well and resist sunlight and moisture, and they’re less prone to yellowing with age than oil-based alkyds. Many paints blend acrylic with other, less expensive polymers, so “acrylic” on a label doesn’t always mean 100% acrylic.

100% acrylicLatexBinderAlkyd

The synthetic resin in most of today’s “oil-based” paints, which are rarely made with straight linseed oil anymore. Alkyds level out smoothly and dry hard, but they yellow over time (especially out of direct light), grow brittle with age and clean up with mineral spirits rather than water. Water-based paint applied over old alkyd without scuff-sanding and a suitable primer often peels.

Waterborne alkydBonding primerScuff-sandingLatexRead the guide →

A pattern of deep, scaly cracks in a paint film that looks like alligator skin. It usually develops when hard, brittle paint, often old oil-based layers, can no longer flex with temperature changes, or when a hard coat goes over a softer one or over a coat that wasn’t dry yet. The cracked paint generally has to be removed before repainting (in pre-1978 homes, test for lead first), because new paint tends to crack along the same lines.

MudcrackingAlkydLead-based paintRead the guide →

Prefinished metal siding, usually shaped like horizontal lap boards, found on many post-war Michigan homes. Its baked-on factory finish chalks and fades with age, but it can be repainted once the chalk is washed off and any bare metal is spot-primed.

ChalkingClapboard (lap siding)Spot-priming100% acrylicRead the guide →

Working paint with a brush right after it has been sprayed or rolled on, to push it into cracks, pores and rough texture and even out the coat. It’s common on rough-sawn wood, masonry and the bottom edges of lap siding, where a sprayed coat alone can bridge over gaps and pores instead of filling them.

Back-rollingWet edgeClapboard (lap siding)

Rolling over paint immediately after it has been sprayed, while it’s still wet, to work it into the surface and even out the film. It helps on porous or textured surfaces such as stucco, masonry and new drywall, where spraying alone can leave thin spots and uneven texture.

Back-brushingWet edgeSpread rate

The trim board that runs along the bottom of a wall where it meets the floor, covering the joint and protecting the wall from scuffs. Baseboards take steady abuse from shoes, vacuums and mops, so they’re usually painted in a durable, washable sheen such as satin or semi-gloss.

CasingChair railSemi-glossRead the guide →

The film-forming ingredient that holds pigment particles together and makes paint stick to the surface; acrylic, vinyl acrylic and alkyd resins are common binders. The type and amount of binder largely determine how well a paint adheres, resists water and scrubbing, and holds up over time.

PigmentAcrylicAlkydVolume solids

Bubbles that form where paint loses adhesion and lifts from the surface, usually because of moisture or heat. Moisture blisters often trace back to water getting behind the paint, from inside the house or through gaps, while heat blisters can form when paint goes on a surface in hot, direct sun. Blisters that go down to bare wood usually mean the moisture source has to be fixed before repainting.

Surface temperatureDew pointCaulkRead the guide →

The tendency of freshly painted surfaces to stick to each other when pressed together, like a door against its jamb or a window sash against its frame. Paint can block for days or even weeks after it feels dry, which is why some trim and door paints advertise “block resistance.” Giving paint time to cure before closing doors and windows tightly reduces the risk.

Cure timeDry to touchSashUrethane-modified enamelRead the guide →

A primer formulated to grip slick, hard-to-paint surfaces such as glossy old oil paint, glazed tile, laminate, vinyl and some metals, giving the topcoat something to hold on to. It still works better on a clean, scuff-sanded surface; check the label for the surfaces it’s made for and the wait before topcoating.

PrimerScuff-sandingDeglossingAlkydRead the guide →

Pouring several cans of the same color into one larger container and mixing them so the color is uniform across the whole job. Slight batch-to-batch differences in tint can show on a large wall or a whole side of a house, and boxing evens them out.

Tint baseColorantFlashing

Shiny or polished patches that appear on a low-sheen finish where it’s rubbed, scrubbed or brushed against repeatedly, such as around light switches, along hallway walls or behind chairs. Flat and matte paints burnish more easily than higher sheens, and aggressive scrubbing usually makes it worse.

FlatMatteEggshellRead the guide →

A historic water-based paint made from whiting (powdered chalk), glue and water, often found on plaster ceilings in older homes. It never forms a hard film and softens with water, so newer paint applied over it tends to flake or peel. It usually has to be washed off, or sealed with a specialty primer made for the purpose, before repainting.

PlasterPrimerChalkingRead the guide →

The trim that frames a door or window opening, covering the gap between the jamb and the wall. Inside, casings are usually painted the same color and sheen as the rest of a room’s trim; exterior casings do the same job outside and usually take the house’s trim color.

BaseboardSashCrown moldingCorner boardsRead the guide →

A flexible sealant that fills gaps and joints, such as where trim meets a wall or siding meets a window casing, so paint can bridge them cleanly. Paintable acrylic latex caulk suits most interior trim gaps; siliconized acrylic adds flexibility, adhesion and water resistance for joints that move more, including many exterior ones. Pure silicone caulk generally can’t be painted, so check the label before buying.

CasingSpackleElastomeric coatingRead the guide →

A horizontal molding that runs along a wall at about chair-back height, originally to keep furniture from damaging the plaster. Today it often divides two paint colors or caps wainscoting in dining rooms and halls.

WainscotingBaseboardCrown moldingRailRead the guide →

A fine, powdery residue that forms on exterior paint as sunlight breaks down the binder and frees the pigment; rub a hand across faded siding and it comes away colored. Some chalking is normal as paint ages, but heavy chalk has to be washed off before repainting or the new coat may not bond well.

Aluminum sidingBinderPigmentRead the guide →

Long horizontal boards installed so each one overlaps the board below, shedding water down the wall. “Clapboard” traditionally means wood, while “lap siding” also covers fiber cement, vinyl and aluminum versions. On painted wood, the bottom edges and the end joints where boards butt together are often the first places paint fails.

Fiber cementAluminum sidingCorner boardsBack-brushingRead the guide →

Painting a room’s walls, trim, doors and sometimes the ceiling all in one color, or close shades of it, for an enveloping, tonal look. Varying the sheen, such as a lower sheen on walls and a higher one on trim, keeps some definition while the color stays the same.

Accent wallFifth wallSatinSemi-glossRead the guide →

The concentrated liquid pigment a paint store dispenses into a tint base to create a specific color, measured out by a computerized formula. Because the formula is recorded, the same color can be mixed again later, though slight batch-to-batch variation is normal.

Tint basePigmentBoxing paintVOC (volatile organic compound)

Vertical trim boards at the outside corners of a house, where two walls of siding meet, covering the board ends and giving the siding a clean edge to butt against. They’re usually painted the trim color, which outlines the shape of the house.

Clapboard (lap siding)Frieze boardFasciaCasingRead the guide →

Decorative trim along the top of a wall where it meets the ceiling, often built up from several pieces in older homes. It’s usually painted to match the rest of the trim, though some rooms carry it in the ceiling or wall color instead.

BaseboardChair railDentil moldingFifth wallRead the guide →

How long paint takes to reach full hardness and durability after it dries, typically measured in days or weeks rather than hours. Paint can feel dry long before it has cured, so heavy cleaning, pushing furniture against walls or closing freshly painted doors tightly is better left until the label’s cure period has passed.

Dry to touchRecoat timeBlockingRead the guide →

Painting a clean edge with a brush along ceilings, corners, trim and fixtures, where a roller can’t reach without touching the neighboring surface. A good cut line is straight without tape, and the wall gets rolled up to it while the brushed edge is still wet so the two blend.

Wet edgeLap marksFlashingRead the guide →

Dulling a glossy painted surface so new paint can grip it, either by sanding or with a liquid deglosser (sometimes called “liquid sandpaper”). Liquid deglossers clean and lightly etch the finish but don’t smooth drips or imperfections the way sanding does; follow the label’s timing for priming or painting afterward.

Scuff-sandingBonding primerTSP and TSP substituteAlkydRead the guide →

A row of small, evenly spaced rectangular blocks, like a row of teeth, found in the cornice under a roof edge or as part of an interior crown molding. It’s a classical detail common on Colonial Revival and Georgian homes, and its many small faces and gaps make it slow, careful work to paint.

Crown moldingFrieze boardFasciaRead the guide →

The temperature at which moisture in the air condenses into dew. Paint applied to a surface at or near the dew point can trap moisture, causing poor adhesion or surfactant leaching; a common rule is to keep the surface at least 5°F above the dew point. In Michigan’s cool spring and fall weather, that often means finishing exterior work early enough for paint to set before evening dew.

Surface temperatureSurfactant leachingBlisteringRead the guide →

A protective covering spread over floors, furniture and landscaping while painting. Canvas drop cloths absorb drips and stay flat underfoot but can let a large spill soak through; plastic sheeting stops liquids but gets slippery on floors and is better suited to covering furniture.

Read the guide →

The point at which paint no longer feels tacky and won’t transfer to a light touch, often within an hour or so for water-based paint in mild conditions. Dry to touch is not the same as ready to recoat or fully cured, and cool or humid weather slows every stage; check the label.

Recoat timeCure timeBlockingRead the guide →

A white, powdery or crusty deposit of salts on brick, block, stucco or concrete, left behind when water moves through the masonry and evaporates at the surface. It signals moisture in the wall; painting over it without fixing the water source and removing the salts usually leads to peeling.

StuccoElastomeric coatingBlisteringRead the guide →

A low-sheen finish with a soft, slight glow, a step up from matte or flat and below satin. It’s a common choice for living rooms, bedrooms and halls because it’s more washable than flat while still hiding minor wall flaws fairly well. Sheen names aren’t standardized, so one brand’s eggshell may look shinier than another’s.

FlatMatteSatinSemi-glossRead the guide →

A very thick, rubbery coating that stretches and recovers, designed to bridge hairline cracks and keep wind-driven rain out of masonry and stucco. Because it forms a heavy film that lets little water vapor through, it can trap moisture in walls that need to breathe, so it isn’t right for every surface; check the manufacturer’s requirements.

StuccoEfflorescenceMil (dry film thickness)CaulkRead the guide →

The board that runs along the lower edge of the roof at the ends of the rafters, where gutters are usually attached. Fascia takes a beating from sun and gutter overflow, so peeling there can point to a gutter or roof-edge problem worth fixing before painting.

SoffitFrieze boardCorner boardsRead the guide →

Tapering an edge so it blends into the surrounding surface: sanding around chipped paint until there’s no ridge, or easing off brush or roller pressure so new paint fades into the old. Feathered edges help keep patches and touch-ups from showing as raised or shiny outlines.

Spot-primingFlashingSpackleLap marksRead the guide →

Siding and trim made from cement, sand and cellulose fibers, often sold factory-primed or prefinished. It resists rot and insects and holds paint well, but cut ends and nail holes need sealing or touch-up, and manufacturers publish specific painting requirements worth following.

Clapboard (lap siding)100% acrylicCorner boardsRead the guide →

The ceiling, treated as a design surface rather than an automatic white. Painting it a tint of the wall color, a contrasting shade or a deeper color can make a room feel cozier or more finished, while flat finishes remain the most forgiving choice for hiding ceiling flaws.

Accent wallColor drenchingFlatLRV (light reflectance value)Read the guide →

Uneven patches of sheen or color in a painted surface, usually where patches, cut-in edges or touch-ups absorb paint differently than the area around them. Priming repairs and rolling whole walls corner to corner help prevent it. In construction, “flashing” means something else entirely: the metal or membrane that seals joints around chimneys, windows and roof edges.

Spot-primingLap marksCutting inFeatheringRead the guide →

The lowest sheen, with little to no shine, which makes it the most forgiving at hiding wall imperfections and the usual choice for ceilings. Traditional flats mark and burnish more easily than higher sheens, though many newer flats are formulated to be more washable.

MatteEggshellBurnishingFifth wallRead the guide →

A wide horizontal trim board at the top of an exterior wall, directly under the soffit or eaves, where the siding stops. On Colonial Revival and other classical-style homes it’s often part of a larger cornice, sometimes with dentil or crown molding.

SoffitFasciaDentil moldingCorner boardsRead the guide →

The compound that seals panes of glass into traditional wood window sashes, tooled into a neat bevel on the outside of the glass. Oil-based putty needs time to skin over before it’s painted (check the label), and the paint should lap slightly onto the glass to seal the joint against water.

SashMuntinLead-based paintRead the guide →

One of the shiniest sheens, sometimes sold as “high gloss,” with a reflective, glassy finish. Gloss is hard-wearing and very easy to clean, but it shows dents, brush marks and patches more than any other sheen, so it’s used mainly on doors, trim, cabinets and railings rather than walls.

Semi-glossSatinUrethane-modified enamelRead the guide →

Wood boards set into stucco or brick in a pattern that imitates exposed timber framing, the signature look of Tudor Revival homes. On most revival-era houses the boards are decorative rather than structural. The joints where wood meets stucco are prone to cracks and water entry, so they need careful inspection and sealing at repaint time.

StuccoCaulkRead the guide →

A filter standard for capturing very fine particles, used in HEPA vacuums and air cleaners. Lead-safe work practices under the EPA’s RRP rule call for HEPA vacuums during cleanup, because ordinary vacuums can blow fine dust back into the air.

Lead-based paintRRP ruleRead the guide →

A paste, often called “mud,” used to finish drywall seams and to fill dents, cracks and holes before painting. Premixed (drying-type) compound hardens as it air-dries, sands easily and can shrink in deep fills, so it goes on in thin layers. Patched areas should be primed so they don’t flash through the paint.

Setting-type compoundSpackleSkim coatFlashingRead the guide →

Visible stripes or overlaps of darker color or heavier sheen where wet paint was rolled or brushed over paint that had already started to dry. Keeping a wet edge and finishing one wall or section at a time helps prevent them.

Wet edgeFlashingCutting in

The everyday name for water-based paint, which contains no natural rubber latex; its binder is a synthetic polymer such as acrylic or vinyl acrylic. Latex paints clean up with soap and water, dry faster than oil-based paints and stay more flexible as they age.

Acrylic100% acrylicAlkydBinder

The base that plaster is applied to: in older homes, thin wood strips nailed across the studs with small gaps between them, and later gypsum board (rock lath) or metal mesh. On wood and metal lath, plaster pushes through the openings and hardens into “keys” that hold it to the wall; when keys break, plaster can sag or come loose.

PlasterPlaster washersSkim coatRead the guide →

Paint containing lead, which the U.S. banned for residential use in 1978; homes built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint, often buried under newer coats. Sanding, scraping or heat-stripping it creates hazardous dust and chips, which is why the EPA’s RRP rule covers paid work that disturbs more than small areas of paint in pre-1978 homes. Testing is the only reliable way to know whether it’s present.

RRP ruleHEPA (high-efficiency particulate air)Scuff-sandingRead the guide →

A number on a 0–100 scale that describes how much light a color reflects: 0 is a theoretical perfect black, 100 a theoretical perfect white, and every real paint falls somewhere in between. Higher-LRV colors look lighter and bounce more light around a room, while lower-LRV colors absorb more and read darker. LRV is a helpful guide, but lighting, sheen and neighboring colors all change how a color looks, so test real samples on your own walls rather than trusting a screen or chip.

UndertoneAccent wallColor drenchingRead the guide →

A low-sheen finish with a soft, velvety look, typically a touch more lustrous and washable than flat, though the line between the two varies by brand. Matte paints hide surface flaws well and are common on walls in living rooms, dining rooms and bedrooms.

FlatEggshellBurnishingRead the guide →

A mil is one-thousandth of an inch (not a millimeter), the unit used to measure coating thickness. Dry film thickness is how thick the paint is after its water or solvent evaporates, always thinner than the wet coat applied, by an amount that depends on the paint’s volume solids. Manufacturers specify a target thickness per coat; paint spread too thin wears out sooner, while paint applied too thick can crack or dry poorly.

Volume solidsSpread rateMudcracking

A surface mold that appears as black, gray or greenish spots and streaks on siding, trim, porch ceilings and bathroom walls, mostly in shady, damp areas. It has to be killed and washed off before painting, because paint applied over live mildew lets it grow back through the new coat. Dirt and mildew can look alike; a drop of diluted household bleach lightens mildew but not dirt.

MildewcideSurfactant leachingTSP and TSP substituteRead the guide →

An additive that helps a paint film resist mildew growth, included in many exterior paints and in paints made for bathrooms and other humid rooms. It slows regrowth on a clean surface but won’t solve an existing mildew problem or the moisture behind it.

MildewSurfactant leachingRead the guide →

Deep, irregular cracks that look like dried mud, most often caused by applying paint too thick, as in corners or in heavy coats over porous surfaces. The cracked paint has to be scraped or sanded off and the area repainted at the proper thickness.

Mil (dry film thickness)AlligatoringSpread rateRead the guide →

A vertical or horizontal bar that separates two whole windows, or window units, set side by side or stacked in one opening. It’s often confused with a muntin, which divides the panes of glass within a single sash.

MuntinSashCasingRead the guide →

One of the thin strips of wood or metal that divide a window sash into separate panes of glass, as in a classic six-over-six window. On many newer windows, muntins are simulated grilles applied to or set between the glass rather than true dividers.

MullionSashGlazing puttyRead the guide →

The finely ground particles that give paint its color and hiding power. Titanium dioxide, the main white pigment, does much of the work of covering what’s underneath, which is why deep colors mixed in clear or deep bases sometimes need extra coats.

BinderTint baseColorantChalking

A hard wall and ceiling finish troweled on in coats over lath, the standard until drywall became widespread after World War II and still found in many older Grosse Pointe homes. Older lime plaster hardens slowly as it absorbs carbon dioxide from the air, while gypsum plaster, in common use by the early 20th century, sets faster and harder. Cracks and loose sections are usually repaired with setting-type compound and plaster washers rather than lightweight spackle.

LathPlaster washersSetting-type compoundSkim coatCalcimineRead the guide →

Small perforated metal or plastic discs used with screws to pull loose plaster back tight against the lath. Once the plaster is snug, the washers are covered with compound so they disappear under the finished paint.

PlasterLathSetting-type compoundSkim coatRead the guide →

A preparatory coat that seals the surface, helps the topcoat stick and evens out porosity so the finish color and sheen look uniform. Bare wood, new drywall, patches, stains and big color changes usually call for primer; products sold as “paint and primer” can often stand in for it on sound, previously painted surfaces.

Bonding primerStain-blocking primerShellac-based primerSpot-primingRead the guide →

A horizontal member of a door, window sash or cabinet frame; the vertical members are stiles. On a panel door, a common painting order is panels first, then rails, then stiles, so each brush stroke follows the direction of the wood.

StileSashChair railRead the guide →

The minimum wait listed on the label before the next coat can go on without lifting, wrinkling or otherwise disturbing the coat underneath. It varies by product, temperature and humidity, and cool or damp weather can stretch it considerably.

Dry to touchCure timeDew pointRead the guide →

Homes built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint; the EPA’s Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) rule requires certified firms and lead-safe work practices for paid work that disturbs painted surfaces in pre-1978 homes (more than 6 sq ft per room inside, more than 20 sq ft outside). The EPA’s RRP program page has the full rule and guidance for homeowners.

Lead-based paintHEPA (high-efficiency particulate air)Read the guide →

The frame that holds the glass in a window, as opposed to the fixed frame around it. In a double-hung window the two sashes slide up and down past each other, so painting them takes care to keep them from being painted shut.

MuntinMullionGlazing puttyRailStileRead the guide →

A medium-low sheen with a soft, pearly glow, shinier than eggshell and less shiny than semi-gloss. Its balance of washability and soft shine makes it common in kitchens, baths, kids’ rooms and hallways and on some trim, though it shows roller and brush marks more than flatter finishes.

EggshellSemi-glossFlatGlossRead the guide →

Lightly sanding a sound painted surface with fine-grit paper or a sanding sponge, just enough to dull the gloss and give new paint some “tooth” to grip. It roughens the surface rather than removing paint, and the dust should be wiped or vacuumed off before priming or painting. In pre-1978 homes, test for lead before sanding.

DeglossingBonding primerLead-based paintRead the guide →

A shiny, durable sheen that stands up to scrubbing, traditionally used on trim, doors and cabinets and in kitchens and bathrooms. The shine that makes it easy to clean also shows dents, patches and brush marks more than lower sheens do.

SatinGlossBaseboardUrethane-modified enamelRead the guide →

A powdered joint compound, often called “hot mud,” that’s mixed with water and hardens by chemical reaction within a working time printed on the bag. It shrinks very little, handles deep fills and bonds well to plaster, which makes it the usual choice for plaster repairs. It sands harder than premixed compound, so it’s often finished with a thin coat of the softer kind.

Joint compoundPlasterSkim coatSpackleRead the guide →

A primer made from shellac resin dissolved in alcohol, valued for sealing stubborn stains such as water marks, smoke and wood knots, as well as odors that bleed through other primers. It dries very fast and sticks to most clean surfaces, but it cleans up with denatured alcohol, needs good ventilation and is often limited to interior use or exterior spot-priming; check the label.

Stain-blocking primerTannin bleedPrimer

A thin layer of joint compound or plaster troweled over an entire wall or ceiling to smooth out cracks, patchwork or uneven texture. Skim coating is common on old plaster walls with many small repairs, and the new surface needs priming before paint.

Joint compoundSetting-type compoundPlasterPrimerRead the guide →

The underside of a roof overhang, running from the fascia back to the wall of the house. Many soffits are vented to let air into the attic, so the vents need to stay open when they’re painted, and peeling or mildew here can point to a moisture or ventilation problem.

FasciaFrieze boardMildewRead the guide →

A lightweight, ready-to-use filler for nail holes, small dents and hairline cracks. It dries fast and sands easily but isn’t meant for large holes or deep fills, where joint compound or setting-type compound is a better match. Patches should be spot-primed before painting so they don’t flash.

Joint compoundSetting-type compoundSpot-primingFlashingRead the guide →

Priming only the areas that need it, such as bare wood, patches, repaired cracks or stains, instead of priming the whole surface. It saves time on sound paint, but spot-primed areas can show through the finish as dull or shiny patches if the primer isn’t feathered out or the topcoat goes on too thin.

PrimerFlashingFeatheringSpackleRead the guide →

How much area a gallon of paint covers at the recommended film thickness, listed on the label as a range of square feet per gallon. Rough, porous or textured surfaces soak up more, so real coverage often falls short of the label figure, and stretching paint further than recommended leaves a thin film.

Mil (dry film thickness)Volume solidsBack-rolling

A primer made to seal in stains that would otherwise bleed through new paint, such as water marks, smoke, marker and wood tannins. Water-based, oil-based and shellac-based versions exist, and the solvent-based types generally handle severe stains more reliably. With water stains, fix the leak and let the area dry fully before priming.

Shellac-based primerTannin bleedPrimerRead the guide →

A vertical member of a door, window sash or cabinet frame; the horizontal members are rails. On a panel door the outer stiles run the full height along each edge, and they’re usually painted last so the long strokes finish clean.

RailSashCasingRead the guide →

A cement- or lime-based exterior plaster applied in coats over lath or masonry, common on Tudor Revival and French Eclectic houses. It’s porous and prone to hairline cracks, so repainting means repairing cracks, cleaning off efflorescence or mildew and choosing a masonry coating suited to the wall’s condition. Once unpainted stucco is painted, it will need repainting from then on.

Half-timberingElastomeric coatingEfflorescenceBack-rollingRead the guide →

The temperature of the wall or trim itself, which can differ sharply from the air: siding in direct sun can run much hotter than the air, and surfaces cool quickly after sunset. Paint labels give minimum application temperatures for both air and surface, and painting in hot, direct sun can cause blistering and lap marks. That’s why exterior painters often follow the shade around the house.

Dew pointBlisteringLap marksRead the guide →

Tan, brown or sometimes glossy, sticky streaks that appear on fresh latex paint when moisture draws surfactants (soap-like ingredients) to the surface before the paint has cured. It shows up outside after cool, humid nights or heavy dew, and inside on bathroom walls exposed to shower steam. It’s usually cosmetic and washes off with soap and water, though it can take more than one washing.

Dew pointCure timeMildewRead the guide →

Brownish discoloration that seeps through paint from tannin-rich woods such as cedar and redwood, carried to the surface by moisture, including the water in a latex primer. Knots in pine trim cause a similar yellow-brown bleed from resin. A stain-blocking primer made for the purpose, often oil- or shellac-based, keeps both from coming through.

Stain-blocking primerShellac-based primerPrimer

The untinted paint that colorant is added to at the store, made in several versions from a white or pastel base with plenty of white pigment to deep and clear bases with little or none. The deeper the color, the less white the base contains, which is why rich colors can take more coats to cover.

ColorantPigmentBoxing paint

Trisodium phosphate (TSP) is a heavy-duty cleaner long used to cut grease and grime on walls and trim before painting; TSP substitutes are phosphate-free alternatives sold for the same job. With either, wear gloves as the label directs and rinse thoroughly, since leftover residue can keep paint from bonding.

DeglossingScuff-sandingMildewRead the guide →

The subtle color beneath a paint’s main color that shows up in certain light or next to other colors, such as a hint of green in some grays or pink in some beiges. Undertones are why two whites or two grays that match on a chip can look different on the wall, so compare real samples side by side on your own walls, in daylight and at night.

LRV (light reflectance value)Accent wallColor drenchingRead the guide →

An alkyd (oil-based or waterborne) or acrylic paint with urethane built into the resin for extra hardness and resistance to scuffs, scratches and blocking. It’s widely used on trim, doors and cabinets, where a tough, smooth finish matters. “Enamel” itself describes a hard, smooth finish rather than a specific chemistry.

Waterborne alkydAlkydBlockingSemi-glossRead the guide →

Carbon-based chemicals that evaporate from paint as it dries and contribute to its smell. VOC content is listed on many labels and data sheets in grams per liter, and paints sold as “low-VOC” or “zero-VOC” are formulated to release less, though some colorants can add VOCs back. Either way, ventilate the room while paint goes on and dries.

ColorantLatexAlkyd

The portion of a paint’s volume, pigment plus binder, that stays behind as dry film after the water or solvent evaporates. At the same spread rate, a paint with higher volume solids leaves a thicker dry film, which makes it one of the more telling numbers on a product data sheet when comparing paints.

Mil (dry film thickness)BinderPigmentSpread rate

Paneling or boards applied to the lower part of a wall, often capped with a chair rail, originally to protect plaster from wear. It may be raised panels, flat panels or beadboard, and when painted it usually gets a durable trim sheen such as satin or semi-gloss.

Chair railBaseboardSemi-glossRead the guide →

A paint whose alkyd resin is dispersed in water instead of solvent, so it cleans up with soap and water but levels out and dries hard much like traditional oil-based paint. It’s widely used on trim, doors and cabinets, and it typically needs a longer wait between coats than standard latex; check the label.

AlkydUrethane-modified enamelLatexRecoat timeRead the guide →

The still-wet border of the area just painted. Rolling or brushing the next section into that edge before it starts to set lets the two blend, while working into paint that has begun to dry leaves lap marks. Heat, sun, wind and low humidity all shorten the time you have.

Lap marksCutting inBack-rolling